A Guide to Gatsby's Louisville
Experience sites that inspired F. Scott Fitzgerald as well as ones that will make you feel like you're in the pages on The Great Gatsby.
Over a century ago, author F. Scott Fitzgerald was stationed in Louisville at Camp Taylor during World War I. Like many young men of the age, he was fond of bourbon and fine cigars, and he would frequently visit the city’s Seelbach Hotel downtown to drink and dance with local girls.
Something of the splendor stayed with him because a few years later, on April 10, 1925, to be exact, he published the classic novel “The Great Gatsby,” which mentions Louisville frequently throughout the story. Many of the book’s most romantic, nostalgic scenes take place in Louisville, including Tom and Daisy Buchanan’s wedding.
Some scenes in the novel are so specific that it feels like you could photograph them. And while much of Fitzgerald’s Louisville has disappeared, pockets of the vintage 1920s glamor still remain. To experience Fitzgerald’s Louisville — Gatsby’s Louisville — all you need to know is where to look.
Tour The Seelbach Hotel
500 S. 4th St.
The most obvious and famous Gatsby location in Louisville is the Seelbach Hotel, where Fitzgerald used to revel in his youth. The grand luxury hotel was originally built in 1905 and maintains its lavish elegance today. It was also where notorious gangsters of the 1920s, such as Al Capone, Dutch Schultz, and Lucky Luciano, would play cards.
According to hotel historian Larry Johnson, a Cincinnati mobster named George Remus, or “The King of Bootleggers,” also spent time at the Seelbach Hotel. Fitzgerald reportedly based the character of Jay Gatsby on Remus, and he chose the Grand Ballroom at the Seelbach as the backdrop for Tom and Daisy’s wedding in the book.
“It’s because of Fitzgerald that the Grand Ballroom is called the Grand Ballroom,” Johnson said.
On Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 4:30 and 6:30 p.m. Johnson offers a free historical tour of the hotel, including iconic spots such as the ballroom, the Oakroom where gangsters would play cards, and the Rathskeller, where Fitzgerald went dancing.
Pro Tip: Check the availability of the Seelbach's Great Gatsby suite for an overnight stay that will transport you to West Egg.
Walk the Beautiful, Tree-Lined Cherokee Triangle
Various
In Fitzgerald’s era, the city's most exclusive, richest neighborhoods were St. James Court, Third Street, and Ormsby Avenue in Old Louisville and Cherokee Road and Cherokee Parkway in what is now called the Highlands. Many historians believe Fitzgerald modeled Daisy’s house on an elegant Southern home in the Cherokee Triangle area, adjacent to Frederick Law Olmsted-designed Cherokee Park.
In the novel, Fitzgerald describes Daisy’s house with gilded words: “The largest of the banners and the largest of the lawns belonged to Daisy Fay’s house… “Her porch was bright with the bought luxury of star-shine; the wicker of the settee squeaked fashionably… “He went to her house, at first with other officers from Camp Taylor, then alone. It amazed him—he had never been in such a beautiful house before.”
Head to the Cherokee Triangle area, especially beautiful in twilight, with these words in mind. You can take in the sights of the neighborhood, just like Fitzgerald did, and wonder which house could have been Daisy’s.
Pro Tip: Founded in 1895, Cherokee Golf Course is one of the oldest municipal courses in the U.S. and the oldest in Louisville. Play a round at the 9-hole public course which sits right off Cherokee Parkway and was surely the green of choice for Daisy’s best friend and golf star Jordan Baker.
Explore Whiskey Row
W. Main St.
In downtown Louisville, you’re never more than five minutes away from a smooth glass of bourbon. Fitzgerald was known to imbibe and certainly would have taken a stroll down “Whiskey Row” in his day, as well as soaked himself in bourbons from distilleries like Kentucky Peerless and Old Forester.
Louisville is home to the official starting point of the Kentucky Bourbon Trail and the only city in the world with more than 10 distillery offerings. Today, “Whiskey Row” has become an entire bourbon district. Look for yellow pole banners and signage up and down Market Street and Main Street to navigate your Louisville bourbon experience, or choose one of a dozen different bourbon tours for a more curated look at some of the city’s finest bourbon makers.
Pro Tip: To truly sink into the Prohibition-era atmosphere, book a Speakeasy Tasting Experience at Evan Williams for a tasting and a bit of history or book at tour at Old Forester Distillery, the only bourbon brand to continuously be sold before, during, and after prohibition.
Snap Some Photos at Union Station
1000 W. Broadway
Though Camp Taylor, where Fitzgerald was stationed, no longer exists, you can stop by the train station that brought him here: Union Station. The historic railroad station, which opened in 1891, was once the largest railroad station in the Southern U.S. At the height of train travel in the 1920s, the station saw 58 trains pass through a day. Its striking Romanesque architecture, iconic clock tower, intricate stonework, expansive arched windows, and barrel-vaulted ceiling welcomed countless visitors.
In the novel, Fitzgerald marks Union Station as the site of Gatsby’s departure from Louisville.
“The track curved and now it was going away from the sun, which, as it sank lower, seemed to spread itself in benediction over the vanishing city where she had drawn her breath.”
Pro Tip: Today, the railroad building houses the Transit Authority of River City, which has restored much of the building’s exterior, ceilings and stained glass. If you’d like to go inside, you can visit for free during business hours from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Friday.
Tour Churchill Downs
700 Central Ave.
In addition to holding the title for the longest continuously running sporting event in the country, the Kentucky Derby was, and is, the pinnacle of events to “see and be seen.” Daisy and her family would have been attendees for annual events like the Kentucky Derby, where the rich and famous came to mingle and to bet on races.
The Kentucky Derby Museum offers detailed tours of the historic racetrack and includes full access to the museum’s exhibits, a viewing of the short film “The Greatest Race” in a 360-degree theater, access to the Derby Museum Store and the Derby Café and Bourbon Bar where you can order a Mint Julep. Check out the new “150 Years of Derby Fashion” exhibit to see how Daisy and Gatsby would have dressed for a day at the races in the 1910s and 20s.
Pro Tip: Depending on when you’re visiting Louisville, the track may have races running, too. Churchill Downs hosts horse races on more than 70 days a year. Dressing up is encouraged for some themed events, like “Twilight Thursday” for evening races with discount drinks and food trucks, and “Downs After Dark” for nighttime races.
Dine and Drink in style at a historic restaurant
Various
Start or end your day at the Seelbach Hotel where you can get breakfast at Gatsby’s on Fourth or order the prohibition-inspired Seelbach Cocktail at The Old Seelbach Bar. For more1920’s flair, try the French cuisine at Bistro Le Relais or relish in the art deco atmosphere of Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse, both of which have been Louisville staples for decades.
Whiskey Row’s oak-fired steakhouse, Repeal, pays homage to the Prohibition era with an intimate, chic design and extensive spirits collection. Fitzgerald, and certainly Gatsby, would have dined at establishments like these regularly.
For some beautifully crafted cocktails, check out gin-focused drinks at the vintage-style cocktail bar Darling’s, a stellar sparkling wine selection at The Champagnery and a selection of craft cocktails, wine and champagne at Nouvelle Bar & Bottle.
Pro Tip: Visit Hell or High Water for a dimly-lit, full speakeasy experience with unique cocktails and couch seating. There’s also live jazz music every Wednesday evening from 8-10 p.m.
Take a Ride on the Belle of Louisville Steamboat
401 W. River Road
The Belle of Louisville is a National Historic Landmark and the only remaining authentic steamboat from the American packet boat era. The charming boat has been cruising America's inland waterways since 1914 and has hosted more than 12 million passengers in her life time.
Today, a varied selection of cruises are offered, including sunset and moonlight cruises, themed cruises like a “gamblers and rogues” event, prohibition-themed bourbon cruises, historical cruises, family-friendly trips and more. Check out the riverboat’s website and reserve a ticket ahead of your trip to take a leisurely cruise on the Ohio as Daisy would have likely done in her youth.
Pro Tip: During your cruise, wander down into the engine room to see the inner workings of the historic vessel and talk to the engineers about the original parts that would have been around since before Fitzgerald was stationed in Louisville.
Find Gatsby-inspired events, info on the Seelbach Hotel, and a recipe for the Seelbach Cocktail here.
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